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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.